Highlights from Milan Fashion Week Men's
It was hot.
This heat wave currently sweeping across Europe is troubling. Whilst the main thing most people are moaning about in between shows is the weather, (it is so hot), my mind has also been spinning about the climate - it’s currently London Climate Action Week where people are gathering for discussions about the future of the planet and how our industries should adapt. On top of that we have the geopolitical turbulence ascending our news notifications into oblivion every hour as things develop in the middle east. Meanwhile we are sat watching fashion shows and heading to presentations (and parties for those lunatics), because no matter what happens in the world, apparently, fashion is too important to stop and acknowledge it… I was sat front row at a show in Milan a few years ago when Russia declared war on Ukraine and it made me and about 4 other people feel very silly, but that was about it.
I’ve never really been into the super-superficial side of fashion, and when it’s just stuff for stuffs’ sake, it actively pisses me off. So whilst my coverage of the week has never been about the coolest crap you absolutely need in your wardrobe next summer, I will always talk about things that matter alongside the central components of craft, artisans, stories and the people connected - discussing the world which fashion currently lives in and its’ role henceforth. I paused my coverage of clothing to post, “You cannot bomb your way to peace” on my stories - something which fostered more attention than any clothing I have posted this week, but I also thought who else has been acknowledging the real world out here …? Caroline Issa from Tank magazine and Edward Buchanan are about the only ones who come to mind immediately who consistently share the real stuff. Between Trump’s outburst, Zohran’s New York Mayoral Campaign against pervy Cuomo, potential ceasefire deals, Iran, Israel, Trumps’ other outburst and Palestine Action group coverage, people in fashion moped on in weird ways and even tried to coalesce the two together. Let’s not pretend Prada can fix everyone’s feelings; I’m bored.
Milan was generally quiet for shows this week in comparison to previous seasons; no Gucci by Demna yet, Zegna showed in Dubai the week prior and there were a few other runway absentees; Etro (opting for a presentation), JordanLuca and Valentino to name a few who have showed in recent years. There were still plenty of presentations though, causing the schlep of all schleps through the blistering heat.
Brioni by Norbert Stumpfl
I had the ultimate privilege this season to attend the Brioni presentation and dinner at Palazzo Stampa Soncino. This season’s presentation showcased the work of crafts people from their tailoring production line in Penne, Abruzzo. Proudly showing a snippet of the hand crafted buttonholes, hand stitched tuxedo shoulders, under-collars, and everything else that constitutes the more than 200-step process. It explored the art of becoming, ‘celebrating the connection between maker, fabric and wearer’. They speak my language. The collection presented the perfect full wardrobe kit-out for the top of the 0.1% big boys and girls. These are the type of garments anyone looks good in; a sophisticated elegance, the World’s finest materials, some developed exclusively by Dormeuil for Brioni, and expertly pieced together. Despite the elevation these aren’t restrictive in any way, the soft cuts, roll on the lapel and drawstring fastenings help the wearability, when jumping presumably from private jet to the back of a Rolls Royce. The finale showstopper this season was a gold tuxedo jacket, with shawl lapel and motif monogram of the arial view of the factory, embroidered in actual 24k gold beadings. I wore what will perhaps become my favourite suit to date - a silk Seersucker, double-breasted suit and matching shirt. The one thing about Brioni’s garments you never forget, is how you feel in them. I’m ready for my Rolls now.
Saul Nash
One of just 5 shows on the penultimate day of MFW, Saul launched his brand in 2018 showing at LFW as part of the incubator from Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East. The British-Guyanese designer has previously won the International Woolmark Prize and Queen Elizabeth Award for Design, and is famed for his innovative technical garments bridging the gap between luxury menswear and sportswear. In Milan we were ushered down into an underground club with wrap around balcony and stage. The models entered under low light and lingered in both romantic and platonic ways, interacting with other models, dancing and embracing. This collection still had its’ signature contrast stitching and was mostly technical but also inhabited tailored elements. A single breasted lapelled jacket became deconstructed through the arms, and the lapels extended beyond the shoulder into a hoody, paired with Birks, naturally. Technical outerwear bomber jackets were paired with slutty knits and even sluttier short shorts in light checks. Several models sported tops with diagonal slitting across the breast exposing the right pectorals. Overall it is probably one of the best examples of what Nash’s brand is all about.
Paul Smith being Paul Smith
One thing about Paul is that he’s never changed. For his own walk out, the soon to be 79 year old swung his legs through the air, holding onto the bannisters at the top of the staircase, exuberant, full of life and joy at yet another collection completed. His voice ran over the top of the soundtrack for his show, describing his processes of designing, merging the format from his Pitti show of him on stage talking through each look one by one, and a traditional runway show. He said he wanted to capture the old ways of salon shows and understanding the clothes as you see them. Paul Smith shows are an international affair, a big Asian market attend the shows; a strong area for the brand, alongside talent from all over. British actor Will Poulter sat next door but one from us, alongside a bulky American offering: Kyler Gordon - Chicago Bears defensive back and Jaxon Smith-Njigba, wide receiver for Seattle Seahawks. Lucky the basket crates from a green grocers were strong enough to hold us all up. The collection began with a wave of colour, matching printed shirts to ties, lime green beret’s with suede jackets and the shoes of the moment; a flimsy suede laced driving shoe. More sophisticated looks followed, pinstripe grey pants but still with a net of oranges and lemons in-hand, and a check grey double breasted suit, with a silk neck tie resting on a bare chest and underneath. My favourite look was perhaps the double pleated charcoal shorts, with a buttonless, pinstrip chemise, sleeves rolled up, accessorised with a beret, pins, charm necklace and holdall. To me this is what Paul Smith is - a genius with colour, yes, but it’s adult clothing that’s fun, unserious yet classy, it’s fresh yet it stands the test of time.
Craft on Full Display
The easiest thing to notice this week was the abundance of craftsmanship in your face. I don’t mean subvert craftsmanship you see through analysing products up close, I mean plonking the actual atelier in the showroom and putting them to work in front of everyone’s eyes. For many it’s a way of honouring the people at the heart of the brand, but for me I can see it as a “fuck you” to the brands currently tarnishing the reputation of Made In Italy.
It says, “we are the real deal and we can show you right here, right now”. Church’s have always done this - taking pride in bringing out their cobblers from Northampton to show why they are top of the chain, from the famous shoemaking town. Santoni also had some leather craft specialists working immersed in the orange-soled shoes. As did Tods at their iconic Villa Necchi, who are notorious for their displays of leather craftwork going on as models saunter by the swimming pool, laze under parasols and roll back the windows of the vintage Lamborghini, while everyone else sinks a Campari Spritz. The craft thing is definitely happening, following Bottega Veneta’s latest campaign, this was the perfect opportunity to get to work in owning the narrative around Italian craftsmanship, and those that have it at their disposal put their cards on the table this week.
