Paris Fashion Week Round-up
Fashion Week Diary - The Last Leg...
Paris is the return to show-shows. Over the past few seasons that I’ve covered mens fashion week, it has spawned some of my now favourite designers, and shows that I am really excited to see. A few years ago, some of these weren’t even a fashion-household name, but now you’ll be seeing them enter more deeply into conversations and even collaborations.
I try and capture all the shows I go to - sometimes it’s impossible with my view so I might get the help of others. So for this piece I condensed a few shows into 30-second videos, which I have then mashed together in a PFW medley. I will say there were plenty of shows I missed out on, namely the big ones - Dior looked great, and as always Lemaire was incredible, but getting an invite into those shows for me.. well I’m working on it. So share this page and maybe one day, we will be big enough to get a peak.
I was pleasantly surprised by the Amiri show. It was huge, definitely the largest of the shows I attended last week, and was at a venue (Paris Expo Porte de Versailles) which previously held a Casablanca show with an old Syrian Jet in the middle of the runway. The soundtrack was fantastic, featuring some Marvin Gaye and Willie Hutch. Models entered the fort from the back, moseying through a banquet style table set up before hitting a perimeter. The clothes were stunning, an essence of 90’s Tom Ford (That’s a massive compliment), with the glamour and sex appeal lending itself to the tailoring. It was sleek and rockstar ish, and the models looked like they were allowed to have fun with it. Rather than the typical Amiri style cue of ripped slim jeans, logo tees and expensive dunks; this was far above what you’d expect to find in Flannels. Mix and match tailoring opened which was long on the body, with padded shoulders and exaggerative lapels. It was more Paris than it was LA, but joyful and expressive with bold colour matched together. Monochrome suits for women too, the best in a deep purple jumbo cord, leather shirt underneath and accessorised with a golden rose broach. More formalwear came through, a favourite shirt & tie combo with a leather safari jacket. The colour story was perfectly autumnal without being too on-the-nose, burnt oranges, velvety browns, yellows and reds. This was a mature collection that felt like we were transported back to the disco era, the 70’s hangout, with an added touch of elegance.
Before you get to watch the mash-up I wanted to add another honorary mention to AuraLee. Ryota Iwai is becoming more widely known in the industry and with a New Balance collab under their belt, it’s a matter of time before they blow up even more. But I am not here to say I liked it before it was cool, which I did, but to say this is the appreciation of excellent clothing, that is wearable, functional beautiful and still worthy of the runway.
It is styled by Charlotte Collet who has an eye for bringing items to life, the runway looks never appear too archaic, restrictive or polished, their models look like they have been wearing their look all day, it’s comfortable and it fits like a relaxed uniform, but with colour splashed in. Hits were the tailoring with wool mittens draped over the shoulders, knits and fleeces as mid-layers and outer-layers, and long line car coats. It’s nice to see a runway show and know that this is what will end up in the stores, this is what the buyers buy, which can’t be said for many other shows we see.
Also featured:
Fursac - Designed by Gauthier Borsarello, a phenomenal designer, they have stores in London too, all of this show will be made so I urge you to go and check it out.
Sean Suen - also an emerging designer that has been a fave for a few seasons. I adored this collection, from the first look coming out, we knew we were going to witness something cool.
System - A nice mergence of past and present, some amazing textures mixed together and this is where I got a cashmere bear which I attached to my look. Forever grateful for that.
Kolor - the last show from their current designer who placed a bag on each seat with a note explaining this and a t-shirt to commemorate the event. It’s clear Junichi Abe’s previous positions (Yohji, Commes & Junya) have shaped his own house, and his partner Chitose Abe is the designer at Sacai.